Відео

Come on everyone smash that like button, all the videos are interesting, informative and inspiring. Such enjoyable content, there should be a like for every view.

This might be a perfect use case for proggresive bupstops for motorsports application.

I try to always use white or transparent PLA for outside use, things even warp in Swedish sun

you don't need height range modifiers, just use "adaptive cubic" infill

Need to buy a S-Long. Scared to google it. 😂

All PLA prints fail having even tiny load and sitting in the sun. You have showed it yourself all prints failing and just caps with no load doing well. I had pegs from PLA all failed even from small tools hanging after a year. After reprinting with PETG, no issues 3 years later. Same with TPU haven't seen a single part fail yet. And PETG being as cheap, fast and easy to print on new machines, Hardly any reason to even have PLA all my PLA rolls failed sitting on the spool ant not being used became so fragile braking in the printer tube after 4 years.

hey man! nice job., be carefull about hte number of walls. I had inter-layer adhesiion issues when I went to 1-2 walls. as they flex, the layers might wantot rip from one another. there are also different infill that are much more able to squish, like gyroid, or, on cura, the "cross" one. i think that having the line patterns but with one direction only PER layer might give it more squish.

I love neodidium magnets but i have a rule i use when desighning a project using them, and its simply double the amount you think you need its just belts braces, but im very intereseted in your doubling back to back approach as this would be great if it works out 👍

I wonder how much of a difference a glass bed would make, since it expands and contracts less that a metal sheet.

Instead of a round bumper why not make it triangular and have more surface area which in theory would be good as a bumper zone.

Wouldn't painting the parts help with the exposure issues?

i also thought you were going to go with a triangle shape outside the donut, to maximize the area supported on the trailer

A1 is $339 as of 6/23/2024

Printed cup holders for my friends bmw E60 and they warped badly after 2 days :)

Just found your channel a couple of videos earlier. I also enjoy design/printing functional solutions. I am getting into replicating parts from technical drawings using CAD to trace the image, but from measurements is the best way for me. I'm hoping you can keep finding problems to solve with your printer. I know I run out sometimes.

Are they mounting plates welded solid on the side we can't see? They look like they are just tacked on the visual side.

I recently needed to make a change to a gaming joystick and started by trying to make an exact copy of the joystick handle that the manufacturer made. When I realised I should actually start from scratch and make the design my own, it really opened up what I could do with it, and I ended up making a design I was much happier with.

I wonder if the original bump stops were the right size then as they dry rotted and got deformed if they expanded to too wide.

GREAT tip about layer-dependent infill for progressive stiffness! This was one of those rare videos where you learn something fundamental, that opens up a whole new capability that has utility in all manner of use cases. Thanks!

Learned a valuable lession regarding the use of bambustudio and designing progressive damper pieces. Thank you!

Is that FreeCAD you are using to mock up part?

Great video mate. Thank you, at last another great New reason to watch UA-cam. I wonder if that height feature is in cura.

I would build the dampers in a triangular shape in the size of the pad under to have a larger surface area that will take the load off the part.

Tpu is my favorite! Dryers make a big difference in print quality.

What software are we using here? TinkerCAD?

I'm a little surprised that you stuck with a cylindrical shape, even after saying you weren't constrained to original part dimensions and materials. Kinda figured you'd spread the surface area out more and go with a triangular wide-corner shaped bumper, and take up all the space where the corner of the box comes down.

would be interesting to add a middle stiff core, for the bolt tightening, either with abs or a metal insert.

I would be tempted to add extra bumpers, right above where each spring-strut actually connects to the chassis, or maybe more conservatively, just between where the two wheels are.

You could have just removed the front wood part and gotten another two feet of clearance! LOVE the channel!

I think I would have changed the shape to a triangle with round corners to maximize the surface area. I would also consider an abs shell that goes up to the top of the bolt, but not sure if that would hold up.

Great solution; the promise of a self made 3D printed part being better than OEM part is compelling. Hoping you'd paint those upper bolt head rub marks as a future indicator mark of expected performance.

Thanks for all the details

I think I would’ve used the hockey puck. I have hockey pucks under all my machine tools in my shop. It stops him from rusting the floor. And it also vibration damper when you hammer on something. Great video look forward to next next one.

I thought you were going to make it triangular, same size as the gusset, and spread the load even more. Ciao, Marco.

Any way I can get the STEP for this so I can redesign it for a M12 cable gland?

Try our Varioshore TPU. You can print it stiff or very soft depending on the extrusion temperature. With 250c and extrusion multiplier 0.8 it’s very soft.

Dry your TPU. It's not as bad about moisture absorption as PETG, but that stringing is a major sign it was damp.

TPU is extremely hygroscopic and the issues that you experienced indicate your filament is saturated. I live in South Florida and the humidity is so high that I have to print TPU directly from a dehydrator. Telltale indicators of moisture absorption are rough surface and stringing, and it doesn't take much to cause problems. Water turns to steam when it goes through the extruder which causes voids in the filament.

How well does TPU layer lines stay stuck together after repeated compression/tension cycles... Waiting for a followup to see how well they are holding up! Keep em coming!!!!

Next up is a clip that keeps that support rod from clanging around on the frame!

Can't you just use PLA for support material when printing TPU?

Do you forgot to paint the upper part with the dent form the bolt head?

Love the progressive stiffness! Fantastic job...

Use a hockey puck.

Nice part. I thought you might make it a triangle shape to give it more surface area to hold the weight.

Great tech! Thanks

I love your channel! It's great to see people 3D printing useful things, instead of Baby Yodas and Benchies.

Good work working the problem. Always interesting content!

Must be nice I am in arizona. here PLA turns into a liquid outdoors in the summer

Thank you. These sort of items are what I would like to get a 3D printer for. Thanks because I have heard the negatives about PLA and the pros about other types but the difficulty with printing with some of them. New subscriber as of today.